Southern Highlands

A relative newcomer as far as wine is concerned; the Southern Highlands region produces delicate white wines and Pinot Noir. Located halfway between Sydney and Canberra, and a short trip inland from the South Coast, its main town of Mittagong is 105 km (or a 2 hour drive) south-west of Sydney. Other towns of the area are Bowral, Moss Vale, Exeter, Bundanoon and Berrima.

The Southern Highlands are part of the Great Dividing Range, sitting between 500 and 900 metres above sea level and centred on the towns of Mittagong, Bowral and Moss Vale. Like the Blue Mountains, this area has for many years been a favourite destination for those wishing to get away from the humidity of Sydney. Being close to Sydney the region was first exploited as grazing land, then after iron deposits were discovered, some industrial development took place. Many of the towns and villages were only established when the railway was laid down in the late nineteenth century and nowadays the main sources of revenue are associated with tourism.

The Southern Highlands was first settlement at Bong Bong on the Wingecarribee River but this site was abandoned in the 1830s in favour of Moss Vale. Moss Vale being mostly created out of the property of Charles Throsby whose home, Throsby Park, is now a museum. The name Moss Vale is said to be from a Jemmy Moss who lived nearby.

Another highland’s town is Berrima, one that is unique in having preserved much of its character as a Georgian colonial town. Situated on the Wingecarribee River, and established in 1831, Berrima was chosen to be the centre of the County of Camden. This meant the building of such government structures as a court house and gaol. Of a more private origin, despite its name, the Surveyor General Inn claims to be Australia's oldest continuously licensed inn.

One of the gems of the region is Bundanoon, built on the edge of some deep valleys and towering escarpments of the Great Dividing Range and from which its aboriginal name, “place of deep gullies” is derived. Once a popular destination in the 1950s and early 60s, steam trains ran every spring to see the unique pink boronia and other native flowers that grew in what is now Morton National Park. Unfortunately a series of disastrous bushfires in the mid 1960s wiped out the boronia, which to this day has not recovered.

Historical records show evidence of vineyards in the Berrima district producing some 4,300 litres in 1886. Nevertheless, as elsewhere, this faded as the 20th century arrived, and the current wine history of the area dates from the 1980s, when the Joadja Vineyards and Winery was established. Today the biggest concentration of vineyards is around Bowral with about 250 acres under cultivation and successful wineries established at Joadja, Mittagong, and Sutton Forest.

Due to the rich volcanic soil and abundant rainfall, grazing, horticultural and vegetable crops have always been popular, and Robertson is famous for its potatoes. Generally the region is cool, moist and slightly humid, with mild summers, cool winters and even year round rainfall. As far as grapes are concerned, the relatively high altitudes and rainfall make for cool-climate wines. The higher vineyards even receiving a little snow most winters. However, grape production is never without its hazards and in this region they include hail, autumn frosts, rabbits and wallabies nibbling on young vines, and of course birds at harvest time.

The region is especially suited to Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc, which are produced by some sixty small wineries and vineyards, many with cellar doors. Some of the boutique wineries to be found in the region include Eling Forest, first established in 1990 and now with over 12 acres of vines planted. From these are produced a wide variety of wines including, White Frontignac, Late Picked Riesling, Rose, Peach Brandy and Cherry Port. The Mundrakoona Estate is another family owned and operated vineyard and winery just four kms south of Mittagong. Here the Balog family has turned a rough bush block and derelict house into a modern vineyard and boutique winery. Its name ‘Mundrakoona’ was invented by daughter Mary-Kate and means a ‘magical place to play’.

With breathtaking views of its vineyards, Centennial Vineyards is another wonderful place at which to enjoy lunch in the country with great food and wine. One of the oldest in the region is the Joadja Vineyards, a family run business with a hands on approach, that involves minimal intervention, the use of oak fermentation and only the best quality fruit. Joadja is open to the public so visitors can inspect the winemaking and storage facilities. You may find the owners in the middle of making or bottling wine!

A taste of the district’s output can be gained by attending a food and wine event such as ‘Cool Flavours of the Southern Highlands’, over the June long weekend. The excellent local foods, such as beef, lamb, pork, cheeses, olives, berries, stone fruits, pears, apples, potatoes and mushrooms can all be found at the monthly farmers’ markets in Bowral and Moss Vale. And while in the area, you can visit such attractions as the Wombeyan Caves, the Bradman Museum, the Morton National Park, the Fitzroy Falls, and many beautiful gardens.

For a special event you can’t go past ‘Bundanoon is Brigadoon’, when for one day every year the mythical village of Brigadoon rises from the mists for one of the world's largest Highland Gatherings. Among the many sights to be seen are pipers and drummers, a street parade, massed bands, Highland Games, and hundreds of stalls, displays and activities. The ‘Bundanoon is Brigadoon’ festival can attract up to 20,000 visitors from around Australia, and is one of the major events of the Southern Highlands.

With an average altitude in the vineyards of 650 metres, the Southern Highlands region enjoys an extended ripening period that enables it to develop maximum varietal flavours. In particular, its cool Chardonnays, given skilful oak handling, are light with good acidity that will undoubtedly ensure fine maturation in the future.