Wines of Western Australia

Western Australia’s wine regions, like so much of this great state, are refreshingly different from its eastern counterparts. But not in the quality of its wines, which though unique in many respects, are of the same high standards.

The colony of Western Australia came after those of the east, but not by much. In fact, as far as European history is concerned it was the coast of the western side of the continent that appeared first on the maps and in explorers’ journals, beginning with the Dutch and Portuguese. The Golden Seahorse (Gulden Zeepaert) in 1626 certainly spied the coast around Albany, followed later by the Englishman Vancouver and the Frenchman d'Entrecasteaux in the 1790s. However, once the British has begun to lay a claim to the Australian continent they were anxious that their traditional European rivals, the French, did not get a toe hold. And it is that childish point in European relations that sees the origin of West Australia, with Major Lockyer sent out from Sydney in 1826 to found a colony along the coast to establish Britain’s claims; this he did at Albany.

Having founded a new colony, the home government wasn’t really all that keen to pay the costs of sending people out and so began that indulgence in not very well thought out schemes that became a characteristic of Western Australia. The first was the Peel Settlement Scheme that began with high promises and ended with little to show for itself. This was followed by the colony petitioning for convicts to be sent out from Britain just when the eastern states were happy about having abolished the ‘shame’. And then came the Group Settlement Schemes of the 1920s, which saw unskilled and inexperienced British people isolated in some of the toughest farming lands Australia has to offer.

But before all this, the land belonged to the Noongar, a singe widespread tribe, despite its many dialect groups, marked in part by the fact that unlike most Aboriginal tribes they did not circumscribe their boys. The Noongar suffered as did the people of other parts of Australia by having their game eliminated, diseases introduced, and worse horrors visited upon them. Their original ownership and current presence is strongly kept in mind by the many place names of the regions, many ending in ‘up’, such as Nannup, Yallingup and Boranup, which is the Noongar word for ‘place’ or ‘meeting place.

Unlike those in the eastern states, very few wine regions in Western Australia, with the exception of the Swan District and Perth Hills region, had any history of vines before the great wine boom of the 1970s. For most West Australian wine regions, the motivations were similar, declining incomes from traditional farm activities and the locking up of old growth timber in the national parks meant that those on the land needed to turn to other ways of making a living. Throughout the south-western corner of the continent the climate is excellent for wine production, and government encouragement and experimentation helped pave the way by demonstrating the viability of planting vines where none had been before.

In general, the south-west corner of West Australia enjoys the hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters that make for perfect grape growing. Regional variations due to proximity to the coast or elevation occur, sufficient to provide variety and a range of styles and choices. The nearness of such wine regions as the Geographe and the Great Southern regions to the merging of two great oceans, the Indian and the Southern, makes for some interesting climatic environments. Overall, frosts are rare but can occur in some areas of the Blackwood Valley region for example, while the area around Mt Barker in Great Southern region is high enough to growing sparkling grape varieties.

In talking of West Australian wine, Chardonnay springs first to mind and in every region of this corner of the continent Chardonnay is grown to excellent advantage. But it is also true to say that there are a range of other favourite varieties, from Riesling to Cabernet to Merlot. Not to mention the Houghton White Burgundy of Swan District.

The Houghton’s winery is in fact the oldest winery in West Australia, one that produced excellent fortifies and heavy reds as well as its famed White Burgundy. Worth a mention also is Capel Vale winery in Geographe region, which has produced Capel Vale Riesling, named the Australian National Dry White Champion. Also, LedaSwan Organic Winery in Swan District is championing the production of wine without chemicals of any kind.

A number of wine related events allows you to sample the products of Western Australia’s wine regions, including the Blackwood Valley Wine Show at Bridgetown in October, the Pemberton Autumn Festival in Pemberton region, and in Swan District there is the 'Spring in the Valley' weekend in October, and the Midsummer Festival in February.

While visiting the West Australian wine regions it is possible to enjoy not merely excellent wines but also to see some of the most spectacular natural surroundings in the world. Karri and jarra forests abound, giants up to 100 metres above the ground, with many that you can climb, such as the Gloucester Tree in Pemberton region. Every tree house kid’s dream come true. There are also caves to be seen in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park in the Margaret River region, such as the magnificent Mammoth Cave, that are well worth a look. Pemberton Wine Centre is even located in the middle of the Warren National Park, right among imposing karri trees. Last but not least, in the Perth Hills region the town of New Norcia can claim to be the only monastic town in Australia.

West Australian wines are today found all around the world, with regions such as that of Margaret River famous for its Cabernet, as well as Semillon and Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends. The Great Southern region does well with Riesling and Chardonnay, while the Pemberton region is fast becoming known for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Always a little different is the Swan District, whose best varieties include Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Verdelho, all full-bodied and flavoursome wines.